Sunday, October 08, 2006

Uncomfortable Journeys and Indian Eroticism

We are now in Khajuraho, site of famous erotic temples, recovering from the two day journey we took to get here. First leg was Agra to Jhansi on the train. The trains are pretty good in India - reliable and on time, but slow, hot and busy. We shared our 6 person space with 7 Indians, although three of them were children. One of the families spoke a little English and they shared their snacks with us - it was a funny biscuity, cakey thing in a mush called "milk cake". It was incredibly sweet and left you with a tormenting thirst. I hid in my book and let Andy force most of it down.
We arrived in Jhansi in the dark and let our rickshaw driver show us to a hotel owned "by a friend". It seemed clean enough and the prices were ok so we stayed - thus landing ourselves with the stalker manager from hell. As we were just getting sorted and ready for a well deserved shower, he bowled into the room catching me in my bra and Andy completely naked. Unperturbed, he proceeded to engage us in lengthy conversation, remarking that he had a wife and large family, presumably to reassure us he had seen it all before. We had to firmly shove him back out of the door (still muttering about erotic sculpture at Khajuraho?!) - he then took to knocking on the door first thing in the morning, following me up to the room, and when I was caught with him alone on the top floor of the hotel in a power cut I have to admit I was slightly worried!
To get from Jhansi to Khajuraho we had to take the local bus. A complete nightmare. It takes 6 hours to go 170kms and is built for midgets, so that you can't actually fit your knees into the space where they are meant to go, making the journey even more uncomfortable. We left the bus station 2 hours late - we hadn't realised that as well as filling all available seats, the conductor also wants to fill all the available standing room and every gap of air in the bus. There were what seemed like hundreds of people on the bus, all pressed up to each others armpits and hanging out of the doors. We bumped along like this all day. It was extremely hot, sweaty, dusty and dirty. Tethers were short and the conductor was even punched by one unhappy customer.
So, now we are going to stay in Khajuraho for a few days and recover. There are around twenty temples of the Hindu and Jain religions, dating back as far as 900AD. The temples are very well preserved and they depict all aspects of life in the village around that time, including what everyone got up to in the bedroom. Well actually they seemed to be getting up to it in public, in large groups and even with an unfortunate horse. Of course we ignored all the other works and took pictures of all the porn ones...

6 Comments:

At Monday, October 09, 2006 10:24:00 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Lovely buildings - but would look better with one of you standing in front!What is the temp. at the mo? As I type it is +5C - it's 11pm though! Have you been staying in cockroach pits or ok dives? How are your tums coping - got the delhi diet going yet? Have you been using the guide you used last time?
Rachel, someone called Eve at RDA was asking to be remembered to you. Do you need anything sending to Sing. for you to pick up?
Lots of love
xxx

 
At Tuesday, October 10, 2006 8:50:00 am, Anonymous Anonymous said...

P.S. Can't find the address list so please send me the name and address of your hotel in HK asap.

 
At Tuesday, October 10, 2006 4:24:00 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ahhh, India....tigers...had one once, up the Ganges, of course I was very, very drunk.

Bus experience is a familiar one. Whatever you do don't travel on independence day, they like to pick on Brits! On that trip the bus driver was lynched for running over a local, most amusing.

Stay out of trouble.

 
At Friday, October 13, 2006 11:26:00 am, Blogger Andy&Rach said...

Forgot to mention in email, don't need anything specific sending to HK but may need a bikini or 2 and some summer stuff sending to Oz and maybe a decent top sending to Singapore - need something to wear for Christmas dinner!

Who is stout and proud???

 
At Friday, October 13, 2006 11:27:00 am, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Come on....where's the next instalment? I'm on the edge of my seat......

xx

 
At Friday, October 13, 2006 11:31:00 am, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Far be it from me to say "I told you so" BUT...

I did mention that the Shangri La is upmarket and two seasoned - in every sense of the word - travellers might be a bit ripe in those surroundings!

Will try to oblige although you could probably pick up something nice and supa-cheap in HK.

Hugs and kisses.

 

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